Drive by any car lot in the United States and ask to see the latest hybrid car models. Don’t be stupefied if eight out of ten tell you that they can’t seem to keep them on the lot—that they’re just selling too fast! There is reasoning behind the hype: consumers believe in one (or all) of three things, that they’re going to be getting a better deal once gas prices hit $2.50 a gallon, that they’re not sacrificing performance and that they’re helping the environment.
Let’s first take a look at how these cars are put together. First, we have to understand the concept of “hybrid”. A hybrid car might be defined as any vehicle that uses two or more sources of energy to propel itself. Seems simple enough. Hybrid machinery is all around us in the form of
diesel-electric, such as city buses, and nuclear-electric, such as those used on many US submarines. So, the idea and the technology have been around awhile—it’s just now that another energy scare like that of the 1970s, that we start becoming resourceful and a little ingenious. Hybrid power is on the up-rise (and in-demand) only because the two different types of propulsion possibilities (gasoline/diesel and electric) standing alone have proven an ineffective means to get both power and efficiency in one package. But, working together, there is promise.
A hybrid car, in modern terminology, is usually referring to any car that has a combination of an electric and a gasoline (or diesel) motors. These cars use kinetic energy (referred to as regenerative breaking), absorbed by your breaks when you slow down to a stop, to recharge batteries that in turn push the electric motor. All of this is combined into one finely tuned schematic—the result being power to the transmission and propulsion power (i.e. wheel movement).
All hybrids contain a gasoline engine, an electric engine, a generator (mostly on series hybrids), fuel storage container, batteries and a transmission.
There are basically two different types of hybrid engines. The first is a parallel hybrid. This sort of hybrid actually contains both a gasoline and electric motor that both operate independently to propel the car forward. It’s designed to have two power sources working with one goal in mind. In many ways, they are still “connected”.
The second hybrid is often referred to as a series hybrid. In a series hybrid, the gas or diesel powered engine doesn’t connect to the transmission directly, meaning that it doesn’t actually propel the car by itself. It actually works indirectly, powering a generator, which in turn (controlled by computer monitoring systems) either feeds power to the batteries or directly feeds power to an electric motor that connects to the transmission.
As stated above, hybrid buyers are looking for the combination (and compromise) of power and energy that these cars seem to provide. Many gas-powered cars have a lot of horsepower. This is useful for modern driving experiences. No one wants to be doing the minimum 45 mph on the interstate and stopping to “refuel,” as with purely electric motors. Plus, there’s no need to feel like you should have placed your slow-moving reflective magnet on the trunk. However, many gas-powered cars are truly “wasteful” resources because out of those 175 horses, you’ll only have to use less than half that power for everyday driving. We don’t even have to get into the harmful environmental factors of pure gasoline engines. We are just now starting to see the results of our apathetic attitudes on this subject.
The engines in hybrid automobiles are usually much smaller (except in some brand new V-6 models). While this reduces fuel consumption, it means that for the extra “power” that drivers are looking for has to come from somewhere else. That’s where the electric motor and batteries come into play. In some models, sensors detect that the car is in need of extra energy for going up hill, for example. That’s when the “hybrid” half of the engine kicks in. It will do a dandy job of giving the engine that extra oomph or boost that it needs, without using any more gasoline.
Newer hybrid models do a lot of extra tricks so that your car gets as many miles to the gallon as possible. For example, when you’re stopped at a traffic light, another sensor will trigger the gasoline engine to idle down to a complete stop, while the car stays “running” solely on its electric power. Did I mention ingenious?
Since the idea behind the hybrid powered car is reduced fuel consumption without the loss of speed or power, many cars are being designed to move through the streets with the utmost in aerodynamic form; meaning that a hybrid will create less “drag,” simply due to its body structure. Many also use much lighter building materials, reducing weight and pull. Some models even have wheel covers and no mirrors (replaced with cameras and navigation equipment), which saves an enormous amount of energy.
Hybrids don’t seem to be a fad or some social experiment. Consumers and car enthusiasts alike are enjoying what they’re seeing in the market. Everyday it seems a better designed, lighter; more fuel-efficient and powerful hybrid enters. Recently released models are even beating their gas-powered counterparts. One boasts a 255 hp engine with other capabilities such as being able to shut down half the cylinders (without notice) while in motion to conserve fuel and energy.
Hybrid-engineered cars cost a bit more too. Usually the price difference is around 3,000 bucks. And, it may take a few years (depending on gas prices) for you to actually make the savings in fuel worthwhile. However, it’s still better for the environment, and that lingers (and makes it worthwhile) in some consumers’ minds.
And, if you are still one to wholeheartedly grip the stick of your V-8 without budging, you might take into mind that newer hybrid models are gaining on those petal-to-the-metal peelers of yesteryear. Hybrid models are inching nearer to (and even beating!) gas powered cars in 0 to 60 mph road tests.
So, when you decide that a new car might be a viable option in the near future, don’t expect to see too many hybrids in dealers’ lots. You may have to do some across-the-state driving to find a choice. Do some preliminary searching on the Internet and find out what model may benefit you and your lifestyle the most. Keep in mind all that we’ve mentioned and perhaps—in the future—you’ll have no other choice than a hybrid, which at this time seems to be by far the best choice around.
About The Author
Michael Walker is a freelance author providing tips and hints on engine related topics in his website http://www.enginestar.com/, including: http://www.enginestar.com/jdm-engines.html and http://www.enginestar.com/used-nissan-engines.html. His articles are a valuable source of information for the auto enthusiast.
Showing posts with label engine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label engine. Show all posts
What To Do When a Hot Engine Is Hard To Start
Most of the reasons by which a hot engine would be hard to start are based on problems related to the fuel. When the engine is too hot, fuel can't circulate properly due to the way in which vapor obstructs it and therefore the engine wouldn't start as easily as it should or it wouldn't start at all.
A car engine would keep on gaining temperature until a while after it was shut off. During this period of time is when the highest amount of vapor would be circulating around and therefore that is when the chances it obstructs the engine are bigger as well. This way, if you are driving in hot weather and you have just turned off the car in which you experience start problems, you should wait for a few minutes until starting it back.
Fuel injected engines do not experience this problem as much as others do due to the fact that the fuel remains inside the injectors by being under a very high pressure. This way, fuel injected engines would not become so easily obtruded by vapors as other engines would and therefore the car would not have the same problems to start as another would.
Also, engines might become hard to start while being hot if it coincides with the season in which refiners change from a fuel blend to another. Sometimes gasoline refiners change from a higher volatility fuel to a lower one when summer approaches due to the way in which hot weather causes fuel to evaporate easier. If refiners change back to a higher volatility fuel while the engine is still exposed to days of high temperatures, this could cause the fuel to evaporate too much creating too much vapor and therefore obtruding the engine.
About The Author
Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.autorized.com/. Please visit his website to learn about auto maintenance, auto insurance, auto safety and much more!
Did Your Detailer Remember? Commonly Overlooked Areas in Car Detailing
If you have recently taken the time to have your car detailed . It's likely, You may NOT be getting all that you paid to have done. Yes, its true we detailers do fail to perform the professional looking car detail you deserve.
I must admit in the early going, I fractured a sacred detailing law or two. In an effort to make more MONEY I cut a few corners to get done faster.
Now that I have confessed my Sin
I Will attempt to redeem myself, by helping you to spot some commonly overlooked areas that are missed when detailing a car.
So that you, the do it yourself car enthusiast. Even if you chose to let someone else clean your car, can get the best possible look.
Under the hood
Either out of haste or inexperience detailers do not properly clean the
Firewall
This can be easily handled during the engine compartment cleanup. By using a good degreaser, small brush, and a strong burst of water. Making sure all the visible nooks and crannies are clean.
(Always cover any parts that can hinder the smooth running of your car)
If you were to look up, at the inside of the hood you would see painted areas running along the inside of your hood, with a padding in the center.
Always check to see if this area is clean as well. Basically when you drop your dough, or chose to do it yourself this should all be clean.
This can be handled by using the same method as the fire wall, but follow up with a hand mit and soapy water.
(I will assume the engine is dressed afterwards to enhance the final appearance of your now clean engine compartment.)
Door Jams
At first glance all seems well, right? Or is it.
Look at the door real close. Now you see it don't you, Many times the bottom of the door panel is still dirty. If you look at the rubber seal in the door at the top when you pull that up is it clean?
This should be cleaned and a rubber dressing applied to it as well. The whole of the door way should be free of any grease or dirt period.
Trim and Moldings
Are the moldings restored to look fresh, and rejuvenated in relation to the rest of the car? Again these are things that can be and should be addressed in order to justify the price.
Due to the fact that all cars are different in this regards, a simple close look at the trim and moldings, will tell you what you need to do next. (But hopefully you will not have to.)
Trunk
Like under the hood, you want to make sure that all the painted areas on the inside of the lid are clean. Also the rubber is dressed with a protectant. Cleaning this is easy with a wash mit and soapy water. Be sure the groove that outlines the trunk is cleaned also.
Though this is not a comprehensive list of everything that could be missed, in my experience these are the more common ones. If you like more information on how to spot overlooked areas, You can recieve the Free Auto Detailing Tips Newsletter at your request. Come visit us at http://www.auto-detailings.com/
About The Author
K.M.Dodd is a car enthusiast, and an experienced auto detailer with over twelve years in the field of automotive detailing. Auto-detailings.com is a growing compilation of his knowledge and expertise. Written for the Do It Yourself Detailer, at Auto-detailings.com you can read up to date content-rich quality information in an easy to understand style.
kdodd1@alltel.net
I must admit in the early going, I fractured a sacred detailing law or two. In an effort to make more MONEY I cut a few corners to get done faster.
Now that I have confessed my Sin
I Will attempt to redeem myself, by helping you to spot some commonly overlooked areas that are missed when detailing a car.
So that you, the do it yourself car enthusiast. Even if you chose to let someone else clean your car, can get the best possible look.
Under the hood
Either out of haste or inexperience detailers do not properly clean the
Firewall
This can be easily handled during the engine compartment cleanup. By using a good degreaser, small brush, and a strong burst of water. Making sure all the visible nooks and crannies are clean.
(Always cover any parts that can hinder the smooth running of your car)
If you were to look up, at the inside of the hood you would see painted areas running along the inside of your hood, with a padding in the center.
Always check to see if this area is clean as well. Basically when you drop your dough, or chose to do it yourself this should all be clean.
This can be handled by using the same method as the fire wall, but follow up with a hand mit and soapy water.
(I will assume the engine is dressed afterwards to enhance the final appearance of your now clean engine compartment.)
Door Jams
At first glance all seems well, right? Or is it.
Look at the door real close. Now you see it don't you, Many times the bottom of the door panel is still dirty. If you look at the rubber seal in the door at the top when you pull that up is it clean?
This should be cleaned and a rubber dressing applied to it as well. The whole of the door way should be free of any grease or dirt period.
Trim and Moldings
Are the moldings restored to look fresh, and rejuvenated in relation to the rest of the car? Again these are things that can be and should be addressed in order to justify the price.
Due to the fact that all cars are different in this regards, a simple close look at the trim and moldings, will tell you what you need to do next. (But hopefully you will not have to.)
Trunk
Like under the hood, you want to make sure that all the painted areas on the inside of the lid are clean. Also the rubber is dressed with a protectant. Cleaning this is easy with a wash mit and soapy water. Be sure the groove that outlines the trunk is cleaned also.
Though this is not a comprehensive list of everything that could be missed, in my experience these are the more common ones. If you like more information on how to spot overlooked areas, You can recieve the Free Auto Detailing Tips Newsletter at your request. Come visit us at http://www.auto-detailings.com/
About The Author
K.M.Dodd is a car enthusiast, and an experienced auto detailer with over twelve years in the field of automotive detailing. Auto-detailings.com is a growing compilation of his knowledge and expertise. Written for the Do It Yourself Detailer, at Auto-detailings.com you can read up to date content-rich quality information in an easy to understand style.
kdodd1@alltel.net
Helping Your Car Run The Extra Mile
Keep your engine tuned up. A misfiring spark plug can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30 percent. This means less money in your wallet. Follow the service schedules listed in your owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended.
I know it doesn't always fit into your schedule. You just have to make yourself do it. If the dealer is charging an arm and a leg for a tune-up, get a second opinion at a local reputable car repair shop. They can do the same service schedule, usually at a greater savings to you.
These tune-ups not only keep your car running smoothly, but they’ll help when you’re ready for a newer vehicle. A smooth running car means a better trade in value for you.
Check your tires for proper inflation. Under-inflation actually wastes fuel. It causes your engine to work harder to push the vehicle. Wheels that are out-of-line (as evidenced by uneven tread wear or vehicle pulling) make the engine work harder, too. Keep those tires inflated properly, and you will save when you fill up.
Drive gently. Avoid sudden accelerations and the jerky stop-and-go routine. (Pass the barf bag, please!) Use cruise-control on open highways to keep your speed as steady as possible.
Avoid excessive idling. Shut off the engine while waiting for friends and family. Today's vehicles are designed to "warm up" fast, so there's no need to warm your car up for half an hour on cold winter mornings.
Keep your air conditioner in top condition.
Remove extra items from the vehicle. Less weight means better mileage. Storing luggage in the trunk rather than on the roof reduces air drag. All these little things add up.
Plan your daily errands to eliminate unnecessary driving. Try to travel when traffic is light to avoid stop-and-go conditions.
Join a car pool. At least, ask if someone wants to share a ride if you're just headed one place and then back.
Remember, how you drive your car, and how its fluids, old parts, and tires are disposed of all affect the environment. So take good care of your baby! Go the extra mile for it, and it will run the extra miles for you!
About The Author
John Sanderson
This article provided courtesy of http://www.car-audio-shopper.com/
support@arundel.net
Vehicular Diuretic – To Use or Not to Use
Diuretics, commonly known as "water pills," are designed to help eliminate water. In engines, water and fuel are inbred kissing cousins, that when left unsupervised, produce carbon baby abnormalities, e.g., power and performance demise, decreased mileage, increased toxic emissions, increased maintenance applications, and engine fatality.
Who should use an engine diuretic?
Machinery or vehicles dependent upon fuel to function, should snack on a nutritious engine diuretic.
Is water present in gasoline?
Yes. Like all fuels, gasoline has a fatal attraction to water. Sulfur resides in fuel, and when wedded with water, births sulfuric acid.
Sulfuric acid assaults engines. When not burned off during combustion, its carnage of carbon deposits is left strewn throughout the engine. Carbon babies cling to spark plugs, valves, oil, etc., and impair an engine’s ability to perform. Too many carbon baby deposits, the engine undertaker is knocking on the door.
Is water present in diesel fuel?
Yes. Being less refined than gasoline, diesel fuel will retain larger quantities of water. Water in diesel fuel is a breeding ground for microorganisms, or bacteria, which feed on hydrocarbons in fuel. These microorganisms produce baby spores, which grow up, become active and begin producing their own cohesive families. These families of microorganisms foster slime, which clogs filters.
The onslaught of carbon babies moves at a swifter pace in diesel powered engines, putting them at greater risk for impotency and early retirement.
At what age can an engine diuretic be used?
There are no age barriers. An engine diuretic can be used from newborn to elderly, with the exception of veteran engines (dating 1919 or earlier).
What size engines can use a diuretic?
All sizes from small, e.g., weed-wackers, lawnmowers, motorcycles, etc., to large, e.g., automobiles, boats, ships, farm and construction machinery, or 18 wheeler trucks.
Should you be concerned about fuel interaction with an engine diuretic?
Yes. Alcohol or dry gas additives reduce the lubrication ability of fuel, which can result in fuel system damage or entire engine failure. An engine diuretic with a lubricating constitution is paramount.
What does the Fuel Doctor have to say about a diuretic for engines?
Water, sulfuric acid, and carbon deposits lethally effect engines.
Gasoline, diesel, agricultural diesel, marine fuels, and bio-diesel fuels all contain water and sulfur, which begets unhealthy sulfuric acid. When not burned off during combustion, spawned carbon deposits set up squatter’s rights in engines.
Therefore, all engines need a diuretic, regardless of age or size. However, caution should be taken in choosing an engine diuretic, as some target limited areas and many rob lubrication ability of fuel.
The Fuel Doctor’s Advice and Prescription:
It is easy to minimize diaper changes on engines resulting from maintenance, toxic emissions, and fuel.
A simple pill, the size of a penny, popped into the tank at every fill up will combat water, prevent sulfuric acid damage and carbon deposit carnage, yet lubricate the entire engine.
Side effects:
Increased engine performance and power
Increased engine longevity
Increased mileage
Eradicated carbon deposits – present and future
Decreased maintenance costs
Decreased toxic exhaust emissions
Decreased octane / cetane requirements
Recommended manufacturer of the ultimate engine diuretic -- UBiee Power Pill Fe3.
By Dee Scrip © All rights reserved
**Attn Ezine editors / Site owners **
Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include the resource box as listed above.
About The Author
Dee Scrip is a well known and respected published expert author of numerous articles on PowerPill Fe-3, Home Business, Business Opportunities, Fundraising, VoIP, VoIP Security, and other related VoIP issues.
http://www.free-pc-phone.com/
http://www.thefueldoctor.com/
dee@ubiee.com
Who should use an engine diuretic?
Machinery or vehicles dependent upon fuel to function, should snack on a nutritious engine diuretic.
Is water present in gasoline?
Yes. Like all fuels, gasoline has a fatal attraction to water. Sulfur resides in fuel, and when wedded with water, births sulfuric acid.
Sulfuric acid assaults engines. When not burned off during combustion, its carnage of carbon deposits is left strewn throughout the engine. Carbon babies cling to spark plugs, valves, oil, etc., and impair an engine’s ability to perform. Too many carbon baby deposits, the engine undertaker is knocking on the door.
Is water present in diesel fuel?
Yes. Being less refined than gasoline, diesel fuel will retain larger quantities of water. Water in diesel fuel is a breeding ground for microorganisms, or bacteria, which feed on hydrocarbons in fuel. These microorganisms produce baby spores, which grow up, become active and begin producing their own cohesive families. These families of microorganisms foster slime, which clogs filters.
The onslaught of carbon babies moves at a swifter pace in diesel powered engines, putting them at greater risk for impotency and early retirement.
At what age can an engine diuretic be used?
There are no age barriers. An engine diuretic can be used from newborn to elderly, with the exception of veteran engines (dating 1919 or earlier).
What size engines can use a diuretic?
All sizes from small, e.g., weed-wackers, lawnmowers, motorcycles, etc., to large, e.g., automobiles, boats, ships, farm and construction machinery, or 18 wheeler trucks.
Should you be concerned about fuel interaction with an engine diuretic?
Yes. Alcohol or dry gas additives reduce the lubrication ability of fuel, which can result in fuel system damage or entire engine failure. An engine diuretic with a lubricating constitution is paramount.
What does the Fuel Doctor have to say about a diuretic for engines?
Water, sulfuric acid, and carbon deposits lethally effect engines.
Gasoline, diesel, agricultural diesel, marine fuels, and bio-diesel fuels all contain water and sulfur, which begets unhealthy sulfuric acid. When not burned off during combustion, spawned carbon deposits set up squatter’s rights in engines.
Therefore, all engines need a diuretic, regardless of age or size. However, caution should be taken in choosing an engine diuretic, as some target limited areas and many rob lubrication ability of fuel.
The Fuel Doctor’s Advice and Prescription:
It is easy to minimize diaper changes on engines resulting from maintenance, toxic emissions, and fuel.
A simple pill, the size of a penny, popped into the tank at every fill up will combat water, prevent sulfuric acid damage and carbon deposit carnage, yet lubricate the entire engine.
Side effects:
Increased engine performance and power
Increased engine longevity
Increased mileage
Eradicated carbon deposits – present and future
Decreased maintenance costs
Decreased toxic exhaust emissions
Decreased octane / cetane requirements
Recommended manufacturer of the ultimate engine diuretic -- UBiee Power Pill Fe3.
By Dee Scrip © All rights reserved
**Attn Ezine editors / Site owners **
Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include the resource box as listed above.
About The Author
Dee Scrip is a well known and respected published expert author of numerous articles on PowerPill Fe-3, Home Business, Business Opportunities, Fundraising, VoIP, VoIP Security, and other related VoIP issues.
http://www.free-pc-phone.com/
http://www.thefueldoctor.com/
dee@ubiee.com
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