Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 1

Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 1 Video Clips. Duration : 9.88 Mins.

As you might have guessed this is part 1 of 3, I will put links in the video and in this description to guide you to the other parts. There really is more to this video than just replacing the rear brakes. I had some trouble during this procedure and decided to keep it on video to help you in the event you ran into any of these problems. I've also added how I jack up a vehicle from the rear. In short this one is packed with a bunch of stuff that I hope you find helpful in addition to just replacing the rear pads and rotors. Link to part 2 www.youtube.com Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.com Be safe and stay dirty. ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the ...

Tags: rear brakes, rear disc brakes, replacing rear brakes, replacing rear disc brakes, brakes, brake pads, rear brake pads, rotors, rear rotors, rear brake rotors, replacing rear brake rotors, replacing rear brake pads, replacing rear pads, honda, acura, ericthecarguy, eric the car guy

Replacing BMW Brake Pads

Every automobile needs a functioning brakes. Brake and pads are responsible for clamping the brake rotors when the driver applies the brakes, and stopping the car as a result. These are important gears in all cars, including BMWs. Every BMW car has to be inspected for brake pads every 10,000 miles or so. Here are instructions how to keep your BMW brake pads in check:

Replacing the brake pads is probably one of the easiest maintenance tasks to do on your BMW. Once the inspection is done and the pads' material lining is already torn or worn down, it's time to replace your brakes including the pads. If an inspection is missed, a warning light will appear on the dashboard and once ignored, a devastating metal to metal friction may occur.

Things needed when replacing brakes and pads:

• New set of pads

• Screwdriver

• Socket set

• Floor jack and jack stands

It is important to park the BMW on a leveled flat surface. While parked, you can release the lug nuts and elevate the car with a jack on all four corners. If you are not sure what to do next, you can consult your mechanic or the owner's manual for the right jacking points. The next thing to do is to remove the wheels and spray on brake cleaner on the brakes and wipe them clean.

Next, take out the two caliper guide bolts that hold the brakes. Using a screwdriver, remove the larger spring on the outer caliper. You can easily slide off the caliper off the rotor in this manner. Take out the pad that is attached to the caliper piston by pulling the clip out that is fastened to the back of the pad. Do the same to the other brake pad. Remember that when replacing BMW brake pads, you have to replace both and not only one.

Condense the piston into the brake caliper to make room for the new brake pads over the rotor. BMW pistons can be compressed with a C-clamp. Place one pad against the piston and tighten the clamp. Next is the installation of the brake pads. Install it by pressing the clip on the back of the brake into the piston, place the other one on the caliper carrier and then slide the caliper back to the rotor. Make sure to tighten the installment of the two bolts that hold the caliper. Repeat this procedure to the other corners of the BMW and tighten the lug nuts that you loosened up in the beginning. To test out your new BMW brake pads, put pressure on the brake pedal until you feel that the brakes are compact once again.

Replacing Brake Pads and Making Adjustments on MadDog brakes

Replacing Brake Pads and Making Adjustments on MadDog brakes www.goped.com

Replacing VW Ceramic Brake Pads, Removing Calipers

Bringing your VW car to a mechanic will give you less hustle in labor. Replacing your deteriorated brake part may be very labor intensive. But for car owners who want to save money for an auto repair, doing it yourself is the answer, regardless of the labor and time it will incur you.

A guide, like this, for replacing your VW ceramic brake pads and removing calipers will help.

First, you will need materials such as wrenches, jack, jack stands, wire brush, screwdriver or pry bar, pliers or vise grips, hammer, large C-clamp, high-temperature lubricant, latex gloves, and of course, new brake pads.

Gather together all those mentioned tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don not have to hurry and cram. Safety is important whenever you are working around machinery. So, beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Though economizing in terms of money is your goal, do not substitute tools unless you are sure you will not compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Say for instance, never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you are working. Work on a solid and level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. If there is any, replace them as necessary.

Brake linings contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing the linings or cleaning the parts. Use water to wash down the brakes before starting and wear gloves to avoid prolonged contact with your skin. Any contact of these materials to your skin may have bad effects.

To finally start, remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose it off properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid. Always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid messes up with paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off with plenty of water. After all, brake fluid is water soluble.

Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs. You need to loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely. Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side. Remove the lugs and then take the wheels off.

You might ask yourself how to remove the calipers. Listed are the steps on how to.

For the floating caliper, remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings or guides so that they can be reinstalled properly. Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide the caliper off. The floating caliper is now ready to be removed. By using a large C-clamp, push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

Another type is the sliding caliper.

A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining bolt or screw holding the key. Then, drive the key out with an appropriate tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Observe and note the position of the retainers before you remove them. After this, the sliding caliper is now ready to be removed. Through the use of a large C-clamp, push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

The sliding caliper can also be removed by separating the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is already removed.

Clean the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as possible for proper brake operation. You need to wet down the area with water to prevent dust from sticking. Allow parts to dry.

Fixed Caliper, on the other hand, can be removed by removing the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads will not come out the back of the caliper. Push back the piston before removing the old pads. Again, if half the brake fluid was not removed, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

Check the rotor or disc for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations. Then, remove the pads from the calipers and remove any pins or retainers. Push pads back and pull them out.

You are done replacing your VW ceramic brake pads and removing calipers. Labor intensive, but money saving.

Replacing Car Clutch and Oil Filter

Have you ever replaced a car clutch yourselves? Unlike other car related works, it's not that easy or simple. First of all you should be clearing the basics. Still, it's not just about getting things right. There are lots of things to learn. Only by practicing the act, you'll be gaining the right kind of exposure. And from then on, things will get easier for you. But to get into such a level, you should be willing to work a lot. If you are not that interested in repairing kind of things, you may simply learn the steps and try it yourself.

Do you think the procedure related with the replacement of clutch in a rear wheel drive car and that in a front wheel drive car would be the same? Well, not at all? Actually they are with different steps. These are two procedures that have to be done in different fashion. For the same reason, before you get any further, you should first of all understand the type of car you are with. If you are with a front wheel car, you should be following the procedures mentioned this type of cars. Otherwise, the other procedure, which is meant for rear wheel drive cars.

You'll need a clutch disk and a pressure plate to carry out the process. The steps would be a bit general for both types of cars. You may have a look at a manual that explains the process pretty briefly. This would be helping you to clear the basic stuffs regarding the replacement of clutch in a car. Like every other car repairing process, this time also you should be lifting the car up using a jack. Don't play with the jack, if you don't have any experience dealing with this equipment.

So, as mentioned above the steps for replacing the car clutch in a rear wheel drive and front wheel drive cars are different. Before starting with things, it's better to have a look at a good manual that explains the procedures pretty briefly. The same rule can be applied for changing oil filter also. Anyways, if you are having any doubts regarding the steps, related to the above two procedures, it's better to seek the help of a mechanic that knows his job well.

How to Replace Front Brake Pads : Lowering Car When Replacing Pads

Learn how to lower the car after changing the front brake pads with expert automotive tips in this free online car maintenance and repair video clip. Expert: Mark Blocker Bio: Mark Blocker is a semi-retired ASE-certified master mechanic with more than 20 years of automotive experience. Filmmaker: Daron Stetner

Tips For Replacing Car Refrigerant

Caution must be used with filling the refrigerant in your car. Check the gauge - if it reads green, no maintenance is necessary. When summer comes around, you won't want to get stuck in the heat without your car's AC working right. Follow this guide on how to check and refill refrigerant.

Recognize the risk with this sort of upkeep. Auto maintenance isn't for beginners. Severe injuries can occur without due care. If improperly attached, the container of refrigerant can explode in your face. It is important to know the AC system as well, to prevent injury and properly check and refill your refrigerant.

Check the level of refrigerant in your car. If you are now confident of completing this job, then go ahead and find the high pressure line. You should notice the marking clearly as with most other vehicles. Attach the line with the gauge to the high pressure line. There is no need to fill up the refrigerant if you have a green gauge. Your system is going to need the coolant to be refilled if you have a red gauge. (Caution: if the pressure is too high, have a mechanic take a look at the problem to avoid explosions)

The refrigerant should only be filled if necessary. If you find it is necessary to refill the refrigerant, purchase a can or two and then follow the directions on the container to properly attach the can to the line. With the can in the right position, release the refrigerant. There are different methods of release; sometimes it is a pin on the top of the refrigerant can.

The next step is to turn up the air conditioning to high and unscrew the valve on the can of refrigerant. Release the refrigerant into your car's air conditioner lines. In order to encourage the flow of the liquid into the AC system of your vehicle, hold the can upside down. It is possible for the can to freeze during this so be cautious. The can may get really cold - even forming ice - so wearing gloves is compulsory. As the refrigerant refills into your air conditioner, the can will feel lighter, and once you think it is empty, shake the can just to be sure. If so, throw the can away.

You must recheck the gauge. A low reading may be the result of needing to pour another can of refrigerant into your system. Keep watching the gauge during the process. Your car will be at the recommended refrigerant levels when the needle shows the normal range or slightly higher. Don't put too much refrigerant in your air conditioner just to empty the can. Retain the remainder of the contents of the can for the next time you may need to check and refill your refrigerant.

Frequently Asked Questions When Replacing Or Changing Car Bulbs

If you need to replace or upgrade your car bulbs, whether it is headlight bulbs, sidelight bulbs, indicator bulbs or even brake light bulbs, finding out exactly which type of bulbs you need and how to fit them correctly can sometimes prove quite a challenge. The easy option is to take you car down to the local main dealer and ask them to the bulbs for you, although you will certainly have to pay a hefty premium for the parts and labour.

However with the right knowledge and a few simple tools you can quite easily do the job yourself, and make considerable financial savings in the process. In order to help you understand what is required when buying and changing vehicle bulbs this guide has been designed to answer the most commonly asked questions.

How can I find out which car bulbs are fitted to my vehicle?

Initially you should consult the car owners manual, normally all of the bulbs fitted and their locations will be listed within it. Alternatively there are now some very good search tools on the internet, whereby you enter your vehicle's, make, model and year and it will show you which bulbs you require. One point to note is that whilst he owners manual or online search tools are very accurate, occasionally the vehicle manufacturer will change the design, specification or parts supplier during a production run so inaccuracies can occasionally occur.

Should I replace my car bulbs in pairs?

If you are changing your headlight bulbs or sidelight bulbs then the answer is yes, and this makes good sense for two reasons. Firstly if one headlight bulb has blown the other one will follow quite shortly so if you change them both together you wont need to worry about repeating the job for a while. The second reason is that as headlight bulbs get towards the end of their service life their performance starts to reduce, and so if you only changed one headlight bulb you would be left with a light imbalance that reduces the performance of your headlights and can prove distracting. When it comes to changing other car bulbs like indicator bulbs or brake light bulbs it is normal practice just to replace the failed bulb.

Can I touch the glass when changing the car bulbs?

If you are replacing headlight bulbs or sidelight bulbs filled with either halogen or xenon gas, then you should not touch the glass, because the natural oils on your skin will leave a residue on the glass bulb, which creates a hotspot when the bulb is illuminated and can lead to the bulbs premature failure. To prevent this it is a good idea to wear latex gloves when changing your headlight bulbs. For all other bulbs like indicator bulbs, number plate bulbs or brake light bulbs it does not matter if you touch the glass.

When buying replacement bulbs how can I tell if they are good quality?

Although car bulbs from different manufacturers can look identical, they can differ quite considerably in terms of quality of construction, materials used and the testing process that they have undergone. The best quality bulbs are labelled as OEM and this stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer and it means they were built to exactly the same standards as the bulbs that were fitted to your vehicle when it first left the factory. The other mark to look for is the testing standards E1 mark. The E1 code denotes that the bulb has been tested in Germany, which is widely regarded within the automotive industry as superior.

When it comes to buying your replacement bulbs, it is a good idea to shop around between the internet, large chain stores and small independent accessory shops. However never buy simply on price alone, always look for the OEM and E1 marks so you can be assured of buying a high quality product. Working car bulbs are something we all take for granted, but good quality cars bulbs are vital for road safety helping you to be seen and to see more clearly, so always aim to fit the best for your own safety and added piece of mind.